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I have a male budgie who is green with a yellow head.
Sent to Pet Experts October 31 06:37 PM

I have a male budgie who is green with a yellow head. Recently the head feathers have dark little lines interspersed, like little black hairs. Is he sick? Is it anything to worry about?

 

Optional Information:
Age: 1; Male; Breed: Budgerigar

Already Tried:
Just spraying him and his cagemates with water with a few drops of ivermectin mixed in. I spray them (4 budgies, 2 male and 2 female) every day to keep them well.

Customer (name blocked for privacy)
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October 31 10:25 PM (2 hours and 38 minutes and 36 seconds later)
         
Dear Patricia,

They (three of the four) came from the pet store with scaley face mites, and I brought all 4 to the vet. Four hundred dollars later, they were cured, and I bought Ivermectin over the internet. In the instructions, it said that we could spray a very diluted amount on the budgies which will keep them healthy. Anyway, I will stop doing that immediately. I don't touch the birds as they are afraid of human hands, so I don't know if the vertical short dark hairs (?) are stiff. They eat birdseed which is a combination of millet seed, fruit seeds and an Australian mix of seed, I don't have the box any more. I often feed them iceberg lettuce, and they gobble it up. Also I put 12-grain whole wheat bread into the cage which they love. I change the water every morning, and give them fresh seeds in the seed container. I am wondering if I should be emptying all the previous day's seed out and just put in fresh seed. It occurs to me that often I will see a budgie sitting on the seed cup, and although I don't see feces in the eaten shells, perhaps the seed get soiled....Now about the budgie's appearance, he looks rather well, but does scratch a bit. So do the others. I don't know if it's natural for budgies to scratch from time to time. I will look at the droppings. Also I will look for feathers fluffing up. They don't sleep an inordinate amount of time during the day. They sing all day, the males serenading the females. They don't mate. I bought three birds in the past year, not as babies, straight from the pet store. The fourth was introduced during the summer, and they all get along well.
Answer
November 1 11:26 AM (13 hours and 2 seconds later)
         
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Okay Judith, thanks for the extra information. I suggested stopping with the Ivermectin because I wanted to be sure it had actually been prescribed for your birds, by a vet, and for a definite diagnosis. As you might imagine, I get lots of folks asking questions who have taken it upon themselves to start trying to medicate a bird without having proper guidance from a vet to do so. Since that's not the case here, I'll leave the decision to you whether to continue or not. But I would clear the continued use of it with your vet first. Generally speaking, once Scaley Face mites are cleared up and there is no further exposure from a newly acquired bird, medication can stop. Also I'm bit concerned about it's topical application. The Ivermectin treatment is up for debate among some vets because of it's possible toxicity. Some prefer to use a different method now days. Here is a link to more in depth information about this particular issue. Click here: Birds Online - Health and diseases - Burrowing mites (scaly face/leg mite) I wish I could see/feel those feathers myself but since that's impossible, all I can do is give you my "best guess". It sounds like this may very well be a totally separate issue from the mite problem. It sounds like newly emerging pin feathers, associated with a molt. Until the new pins have been cleared of their shafts, they can stick up, much like you have described. The pin feathers on the body are easily taken care of by the bird but obviously, the ones on their head and neck, they cannot reach. If they don't have a cage mate who will allopreen with them, of if they are not tame enough for their owner to help them gently remove those shafts, only time, rubbing them on perches or cage bars and trying to scratch at them with toenails, will finally help the newly emerging feather. While a molt is going on, it can make for some cranky, out of sorts birds because the new pins are prickly, itchy and uncomfortable. Until you get the constant use of the Ivermectin cleared with your vet, I'm going to suggest an alternative that should help, from the comfort end of it. He/she should be willing to just give you an opinion over the phone, since you are already a client. In the meantime, I'm going to suggest that instead of the meds, you put some 100% pure aloe juice in their bath water. It needs to come from the plant, not an over the counter product that only contains aloe. Those could be very dangerous. I keep several plants growing at all times, just for the use of my flock. You cut an arm from the plant, slit it open and mix the gooey center in the water. When you are spraying, be sure to never spray directly at them. That can frighten them and can even be dangerous if you hit them just right in the eye or force any down a nostril. When we spray or mist a bird, it should always be from above, letting it drift down on them like rain. The aloe can help soften those new pins making them less uncomfortable until they have fully emerged. It's also great for just general skin/feather condition. The % of aloe to water is not important because it's very good for them. Here is more info. on that. Click here: Aloe: Parrot Pharmacy In A Leaf Now, for the diet. You need to start making some additions right away. The ideal diet will not be more than about 25%-30% seeds and seed products. Seeds are much too high in fat and while that's not good for any bird, Budgies are particularly susceptible to fatty liver disease, (Hepatic Lipidosis), fatty tumors and obesity. They need a good brand of pellet mixed with their seeds and they need fruits, veggies, leafy greens and much more, everyday. Diet changes must be gradual with birds. They are always resistant to change and we cannot "starve" them into eating more healthy. Their good health depends on us being persistent and consistent if offering the new foods. Once they start accepting some of them, then you can start to gradually reduce the overall percentage of seeds and seed products. And yes, you need to be emptying, washing, scalding and replacing the food and water everyday. They hull their seeds first and the hulls often drop back in the dish. It can make it appear there is more food there than there really is. I've heard horror stories of birds starving because the owner claimed, "the dish was still full so I didn't add anything". For the leafy greens, you should stop with the ice berg. It's not toxic or anything like that so don't panic that you have fed it to them. It's just that it has no nutritional value at all so if they are going to eat greens, it needs to be something that is of benefit. The ones they should have include endive, kale, mustard, turnip and collard greens and romaine lettuce. Don't offer spinach either. It does have nutritional value but it also contains oxylates that can interfere with their absorption of calcium. That's important for all of them, but if you have a female who ever decides to lay eggs, her calcium reserves being topped out, can literally be life or death for her. For that reason, they should also never be allowed to run out of cuttle bone. I'm going to put a lot of links at the end of this with more info. about diet, those consequences I mentioned and some other safety issue you may find helpful. I'm also going to give you one that can help you get started on taming them down. That really needs to happen. Not only will you enjoy them more, it makes if far less stressful for them, when they do need to be handled. Click here: Teaching a Pet Parrot to Step Up For now, I'd just take a wait and see attitude with the head feathers and in the mean time, start to implement the aloe and the diet additions. I hope all this is helpful for you but if you have any more questions at all, just let me know. Patricia

Click here: Grit, Gravel and your Parakeet / Budgie

Click here: Hepatic Lipidosis

Click here: PetCareLibrary - Tumors in Parakeets (pvy.com)

Click here: Parakeet Medical and Safety Information

Click here: Parakeet Budgie and Keet FAQs and Info

Click here: Toxic and Safe Plants/Trees for Birds - Household Poisons

Click here: Birdsnways - Safe Plants & Trees for pet birds, pet parrots &exotic birds

Click here: Nutrition

Click here: Diet: Safe & Toxic Foods

Obesity & Diets (budgies)

Click here: The Basics: Intro to Budgies / Parakeets

Click here: The Budgie and Parakeet Place - Care, Training, Pictures and More

Click here: BUDGIE CARE SHEET

Click here: More Birds Die as a Result of Air Fresheners: That Stinks!!

Click here: Bird Proofing Your Home: Household Hazards for Birds

Click here: Bird Proofing Your Home - Avoid These Pet Bird Hazards

Click here: The Silent Killer, by Joanie Doss




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Reply
November 1 4:27 PM (5 hours and 1 minute and 55 seconds later)
         
Dear Patricia,

Gosh, Thank you. I did buy pellets from my vet and the birds whisked them out of the feeding cup, and wouldn't eat them. I have introduced bits of apple, grape, orange, banana, I recall that only the orange seemed to appeal to them. I do have cuttlebone attached to the cage, and they really go after it. The seed mix I have contains fruit, and you'd be amazed how most of it lands up on the paper on the bottom of the cage. OK on different greens. Is mustard leaf hot chemically? When I cleaned out the cage today, I noticed an unusual amount of small feathers in one part of the cage floor. Lots of feathers. Unusual. May be from the budgie with the new pinfeathers on his head, dunno. His mate will likely take them off him, as they seem to be disappearing. I will absolutely clean and scald my water/bath container, and seed container, and put only fresh seeds in it. I am relieved that these little black sticks on his head may be new growth. Phew. He seems to still be in fine fettle, singing and burbling away. I love that bird!!! I love them all. Didn't think I could love birds like that. I will read the book on helping the birds be less hand-shy. I had given up because I thought that since they have each other for company, they are not interested in interacting with humans.

I will for sure let you know how he does with all your suggestions. THANK YOU AGAIN SO MUCH.
Answer
November 1 5:37 PM (1 hour and 9 minutes and 11 seconds later)
         
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November 2 4:43 PM (23 hours and 6 minutes and 33 seconds later)
         
Dear Patricia,

It's a pleasure reading your replies. I will go the grocery store post-haste and buy the veggies you recommend. PLUS I will buy an aloe vera plant. Great ideas. Thank you!!

I don't really think my budgies would consent to sitting on a blanket or sheet on my bed, they would just fly to where they usually fly when I let them out of the cage every three days or so. (the chandelier!) One of them, a yellow female named Kiro is too scared to leave the cage to fly. I have tapped the cage (the others usually just fly out as soon as I lift the doors open) but Kiro stays put in the cage.   Once I tapped the cage and out she went but flew a short distance (maybe 6 to 8 feet) and landed scared stiff onto the floor. I rescued her by putting the little cage (I have a big one and a little one) next to her and she hopped onto that and then I took the little cage over to the big one's open doors and in she hopped. I tried this again when I noticed her tail feathers were grown in noticeably. The other birds try to get her to fly by talking to her and she'll peep back but she just doesn't want to try her wings. She is a slightly different budgie from the others, she has a little hunched back (like horses' withers) and larger eyes. She was the latest bird I bought. I had her in the little cage for quite a while when she first came here but she was all up and down the cage --   standing on her head just about to join the others. When she did, the unpaired male fell in love with her right away and wouldn't leave her alone. At night she'd actually sleep upside down (hang from the roof bars) to avoid his attentions. Amazing. She is so bright. Now they have adjusted to each other.

Would it do to tap on the cage again to entice (well not really entice) more like jolt her into leaving and trying again to fly?

Again, thanks for your insights.

Judy
Answer
November 2 5:10 PM (27 minutes and 17 seconds later)
         
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Hello again Judy. I don't advocate ever tapping on cages or anything similar to that. I don't think I would try to force her to fly if she doesn't want to. If she hit the floor hard enough to make her afraid, you don't want to try to push her into doing anything she doesn't want to do. If and when she decides she wants to fly, she will do it on her own. It's hard for us to do, especially those of us who do have very tame and loving birds that want to cuddle with us, that they are not really pets. They are still wild animals and we have to always keep that in mind. I am going to give you an option to consider though, for the taming/training period. First I want to clarify that I pretty much never try to advise a person whether to have a trim of flight feathers done or not because in my opinion, it's a very personal choice all make for our own birds and that decision has to based on many factors. Few of which are exactly the same for any two of us. However, that said, I do know that a proper and safe trim can be a tremendous help during the taming process. It not only makes the bird more dependent on you, it also makes them easier to catch and return to the cage. The trick is finding someone who truly knows what they are doing or learning exactly how to do it properly ourselves. You are probably going to be surprised at just how complex this can be when it sounds like it should be so simple and straighforward. You are probably not going to be surprised when I tell you that if you have never done it before, it's best, for your bird's health and even life, if you have a well qualified Avian Vet, or a reputable bird groomer show you how the first time. There are two very dangerous situations you might encounter in doing it yourself. One is cutting a blood feather without realizing it was a blood feather, the other is over clipping to the point of causing the bird to fall like a rock. Dangerous for any bird. Particularly dangerous for a bird with long tail feathers since they always land tail first. An over clipped bird, hitting the floor too hard with those stiff tail feathers, will almost always, split the skin open near their vent and that's an emergency that he will die from, if he is not in the hands of a good vet, literally within minutes. Okay, all those warnings behind us, the first thing you have to understand is that trimming flight feathers is not meant to prevent the bird from flying and it should not. The only thing it should do is prevent him from gaining altitude. A properly trimmed bird will be able to fly/glide 15-20 feet, gradually losing altitude and be able to execute a perfectly balanced landing, completely under control. When trimming any bird, we always start with one or two flights, each side, on the leading edge of the wing. First you have to recognize those dangerous blood feathers. Those are feathers that still have an active blood supply entering the shaft. On light colored feathers, it's pretty apparent. On darker feathers, it can be almost invisible. If one is accidentally cut, the stub must be safely, correctly, and instantly, removed or it will act as a siphon and the bird will bleed out and die, in as little as a few minutes, depending on the thickness of the feather shaft. You will not ever, ever, cut more than one flight at a time on each side, making sure to keep them exactly balanced in length. Think about trying to fly an airplane with one wing longer than the other. You must make the cut an an angle so there are no sharpe edges to rub against his ribs making open sores. The cut end needs to be protected by the two layers of coverts. Budgies can be some of the best flyers of all the pet birds and parrots and usually need more primary flights trimmed than other species. But still, you will work with only a few feathers, each side, at a time and do a "test fly" in between. I'd suggest starting with only the first three flights on each wing. Take him to your bedroom so you can have that test fly over the bed or some other soft, safe surface. Release him from about waist high and observe his ability to gain altitude, or not, and his control of his landing. If he can still gain altitude, trim only one more on each side and re-test. Continue, one feather at a time, per wing, until you have achieved that fly/glide 15-20 feet optimum. I'm going to give you links to some charts and pictures and to information about the blood feathers. If, after seeing all that is involved to do it properly and keep your bird safe, if you still want to proceed, be sure to have all the proper supplies ready. Most important will be the sterlized needle nosed pliers for blood feather stub extraction, and a clotting agent. Do not use a commercial clotting agent. They all sting, no matter what they say. The best and safest clotting agent you will have at home will be; 1st choice, cornstarch, 2nd best, flour. If there is any bleeding, get that stub out imediately, apply a few seconds of gentle pressure and coat it thickly with the cornstarch or flour. And don't worry about cleaning if off again. It's harmless to the bird and to remove it too soon might start the bleeding again. Ideally, this is a two person job. You need someone who knows exactly how to safely and properly restrain the bird. Many times a bird dies from a wing trim because of improper restraint and not from the trim itself. Birds must be restrained with a very, very loose grip. They do not have diaphrams like we do. They must be able to expand and contract their entire body, twice to take one breath. Birds are suffocated everyday by improper and too tight restraint. Okay, I think I have covered everything. I urge you to study all the information before beginning. If anything is unclear or if you have any questions at all, just let me know. Keep in mind that if you make a mistake, your bird could bleed to death and if you over clip, it could be close to a year before that mistake is corrected by new growth. I'm adding (you guessed it, even more links) to helpful information. Some of this is about Tiels but no matter, the information applies just the same. Let me know if you need anything else. Patricia

Click here: Cockatiels, Blood Feathers, Broken Blood Feathers,How to Pull a Broken Blood Feather from a Bird, What is a Blood

Click here: NCS - Clipping Cockatiel Wings, Nails and Beaks

Click here: Wing Clipping Techniques for Parrots

Click here: Standardization of Wing Clipping for Psittacines

http://www.petparrot.com/ParrotCareWingClipping.htm

These two have a picture of a blood feather.

Click here: Birds Online - Health and diseases - Broken blood feathers

Click here: Blood Feathers



Edited by Patricia on November 2 2007 at 5:13 PM



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