I apologize for the delay in getting back to you. Sometimes we have emergencies and must put them ahead in order of answering. Thanks for the extra information. It's very helpful. I think you already see where I'm headed, due to the line of questioning. Grays can be very set in their ways; very unaccepting of even the slightest change in their routine. Even though the changes you listed seem minor to you, to him they may be a very big deal. If the change in your work schedule is going to stay that way for a while, he can eventually make the adjustment but he is not likely to do it real soon. As for the bad bite he gave you, it might be grudge related, (you betcha, a parrot can hold a grudge) or he could have been set off by something else. You will have to think back to see if this is a possibility, but, one of the reasons we may get bit by our parrot is them protecting us. We don't see it that way unless we understand the instinct and thought process behind it. In the wild, they have territory, a nest, and a mate to protect. If a predator or other danger approaches, they can't do all three at once. If the mate does not leave immediately, it will get a nip to send it out of harms way. If at the time you got bit, some other, not very favorite person came too close, that might be the reason. That's also one of the reasons it's not wise to have any of the larger parrots on our shoulders, that close to face, ears and other tender parts. (Ever wonder why pirates almost always have an eye patch? Tee Hee.) If no one else was close by, or if you were trying to remove him from the cage, move him to some other spot, or in any way, asking him to do something he wasn't in the mood for, there could be the reason. Having a Grey myself, and having worked with many, I am a firm believer in allowing them to make as many of their own choices as we can safely allow. Their IQ is far too high to never be allowed to think for themselves. Of course we have to remain flock leader but we don't have to be the boss, 24/7. It's a thin line but we have to learn to walk it. It's the equivalent of having a teenager whom you never allow to decide anything for him/herself. Picture the ultimate rebellion that will come from that. Same thing with a Grey. Practice working with him by sometimes asking, other times telling. When safety or time is not a factor, let him decide what he wants to do; whether he wants to go or stay, etc. We have worked together long enough that mine thoroughly understands the difference in the tone of my voice and he can clearly hear if there is a question mark at the end of a sentence of not. I use two phrases primarily, in these situations. I either say "do you want to.....?" or I say "come on, let's.........", whatever it is. Because he knows he gets to choose most of the time, he has never refused me, nor has he ever even thought about biting. Okay, all that said; other possibilities are molting or about to molt. That can make for a really cranky out of sorts parrot. Any change in behavior that seems to persist several days without obvious causes can be an early indicator of a health issue. If he keeps it up, you may want to consider getting him what we call a well bird checkup with your avian vet. Another reason is it may have been nothing beyond an attention getting device because you have had less time to spend with him lately. Just as with a child, negative attention is better than none. I did not ask how you reacted to the bite but if you gave any reaction at all, that is the worst thing to do. You played right into his talons if you gave him a reaction beyond a "no bite" in a quiet, even tone of voice. The best way to handle any bad behavior from a parrot is to ignore it. Even though mine doesn't bite, that doesn't mean he is little Mr. Perfect. If he does something I don't like, I turn my back and walk away. Few things hurt a parrot more than being ignored by their chosen person. You don't even have to leave the room. Just turn your attention totally away from him and do something else, after telling him in your negative tone, "I don't like that" or whatever phrase you want to use. But pick one and be consistent in it's use. Only use it when you are not pleased and never any other time. Around here, it takes about 30 seconds of being ignored and we are all apologetic and well behaved. I would strongly recommend against ever approaching him with a glove. Many parrots are absolutely terrorized by gloves. It could set you back in your relationship far more than you think. Instead of looking for protection from the bite, study the body language. Learning our own parrot's body language is one of the most valuable tools we have. They all will differ in some ways but somethings you can pretty well count on. Watch the eyes. If he is maintaining eye contact with you, and especially if you see the pupils flashing or pinning, (expanding and contracting quickly), he has a bite on his mind. If the feathers raise, another sign of a possible impending bite. Yet another possible factor is hormones. It would seem that we should only have to deal with molting and hormones once a year and usually in the spring. However, because we have brought them inside, to live in our climate controlled enviornments, they are unable to make seasonal distinctions. Either of those things can occur at any time of the year and sometimes more than once per year. I don't know if you have any books about parrots or about Greys specifically but if not, there is one I recommend. It is The African Grey Parrot Handbook by Mattie Sue Athan and Dianalee Deter. I have a libray of parrot books but if I could only have one about Greys, that would be my choice. It is full of insights into all things "Grey". It is a soft cover, about $10-$12 and should be available at most good book stores. Well worth the investment as you can find yourself referring to it often. Okay, I hope I have given you a lot of food for thought and things you can be alert for, and some ways to handle certain behaviors. Just be sure to keep that vet checkup in mind also. They should have one at least once a year anyway. Any prolonged behavior changes, especially if accompanied by any other symptoms like a visual change in the droppings that lasts more than 24 hours and can't be accounted for by diet, sitting fluffed, staying at the bottom of the cage, sleeping an inordinate amount of time, is our cue to get them in right away. Their instinct forces them to mask all symptoms of illness for as long as possible. By the time we see anything concrete, it's because they are too ill to keep up the pretense. I hope this has been helpful for you but if you have any further questions, just let me know. Good luck with him. Patricia
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